When I spoke with Candy & Ado on Friday night, I could hear a little trepidation at the idea of picking me up at 6:30 am Saturday morning.  However, right on schedule we were packed up and driving off to the West Fork Foss Creek trail head.  After a few false starts trying to find coffee (and an explanation of that odd phenomenon – coffee stands where there is quite a bit more barista than uniform) we stocked up on triple 16oz lattes in Monroe.  From there it was a quick drive up to Skykomish and a relatively smooth 5 miles of gravel (despite the absence of shocks) to the trail head.

Candy and Ado at the West Fork Foss Creek Trailhead

It was surprisingly busy when we arrived, and it turned out that a large WTA volunteer work partywas assembling, with plans to work on a new section of trail near Trout Lake. We hit the trail, and quickly reached the Foss River, where we crossed via a large log.  A few years ago I took this hike with my friend Charlie – on that trip we lost the path crossing the river (which was running under the gravel) and ended up hiking up the stream bed all the way to Trout Lake.  This time around the trail was obvious and as we made our way up we passed some wonderful monster trees.

Awesome tree along the trail.

We took a little breather once we reached Trout Lake, chatting with a few groups that were heading up the trail, or out after a night in the wilderness. The lake was like glass, reflecting the forest on the far shore. I took a quick look around but could not find the local forest throne – I guess a little more exploration is warranted to expand the collection. With a little rest and some breakfast (I had sandwiches with Clara’s awesome homemade jam) we started up the next section of trail heading for Copper Lake.
The calories were essential as we began to climb through countless switchbacks. The trail passed through a jungle of damp brush and angled up along Foss Creek. We happened on a huge tree which had fallen across the trail. Despite the usual effort to move it out of the way, we ended up passing underneath.

Tree Movers!

This is pretty heavy...

The climb continued up with a fairly stiff elevation gain. Sadly, the berry harvest was pretty minimal, providing only a few small and tart berries – I have the feeling the bears will be a little slimmer this winter. As we rounded a corner the falls from the Copper and Malachite Lakes outlets came into view. The falls cascade over a sheer granite face, dropping several hundred feet, then flowing down through the forest to Trout Lake, skirting along the path. Seeing the falls provided additional incentive to keep trekking up as we realized that Copper Lake was just beyond the top…

Falls below Copper Lake

We soon made our way up to the falls, crossing the outlet from Malachite Lake, and hiking up the final half mile or so, reaching Copper Lake at close to 4000ft. It started to drizzle, so we found a spot under some trees along the lake shore. We dined in the usual high country gourmet style, feasting on bread, cheese, carrots, lettuce and a cup of Trader Joes Instant Miso Soup. After a half hour sojourn at the lake, we trekked back down relatively quickly. Along the way we met the WTA trail party – tested out their newly finished handy work and were back at the car within ~ 2 hours. This was a very enjoyable second trip to the lake, and I look forward to the next time when I might push on to some of the other lakes in the chain.

Copper Lake

Some of you who are not so experienced with multiday hikes may be wondering – how do you take care of business when nature calls number two out there on the trail.  On many trails, it’s a matter of heading a ways off trail, and finding a place where you can bury your business. However, there are also many trails where the forest service or trail workers have provided  a forest throne.  On this loop trail, three of the four camps provided such luxury outdoor seating.

Spider Meadow: Set up a hill in the woods, some distance from camp this throne offered the best privacy.  The local mosquito population staked out the area pretty well, which limited the time for comfortable seating on this commode.  However, the forest and meadow views provided a great view to enjoy while seated.

Spider Throne

View from the Spider Meadows Throne

Lyman Lakes:Set deep in the woods, this throne commanded a view of trees, and with some squinting, the rock face of a nearby mountain.  Since I visited later in the evening, the mosquito and fly population had died down, effectively limiting my visit to the duration of the batteries in my headlamp.  Since it’s an LED, I probably could have stayed and read all night, but as it was a little chilly and there was no protection from the spattering rain, this ended up being a short visit.

Lyman Lakes Throne

View from the Lyman Lakes Throne

Buck Creek Pass:Probably the most open of the thrones, the Buck Creek commode was placed in the midst of a series of deadfalls.  Once seated, you commanded a great view in all directions – across the meadow, into the forest and toward the campsite.  Time on this throne was only limited by the rate at which the biting flies homed in on your exposed parts.

View from the Buck Creek Pass Throne

Buck Creek Pass Throne

We got up fairly early this morning since we hoped to hike out and get back to Seattle in time to bring the truck in for repairs.  The local crop of huckleberries added a nice touch to the usual oatmeal breakfast.  We broke camp in time to avoid most of the flies, and quickly made our way to Trinity and the Phelps Creek campsite.  Here we ditched our packs and hiked the long gravel road back to the trailhead where we parked.

Along the Buck Creek Trail with less than a mile to go.

This last 2-3 mile leg seemed to take forever, but the 700 ft climb was over before too long and we were left with one last task – getting the truck started and making our way back to the city without a clutch.  This proved easier than I thought once I figured out that I could start the truck in 1st.  With this realization, I could gas up, get coffee and drive through Monroe as well as Bothell, Kenmore and Lake City without worrying about stalling and not getting started again.

All in all, the last minute change of plans brought us into a new corner of the Cascade Wilderness and I think both of us agreed that this turned out to be a great trip.  Each day brought something new, and the views from Spider Gap, Cloudy Pass and Liberty Cap are among my all time favorites (perhaps until the next hike ).  I would recommend this loop trip to anyone, though I would suggest that you should be in decent shape before you embark.

One last word: Thanks to my great hiking partner Ken, who has managed to put up with me for seven straight years as we’ve now hiked the Washington Coast, completed the West Coast Trail on Vancouver Island, hiked two sections of the Pacific Crest Trail, followed the Chilkoot Trail, canoed the Bowron Lakes and now finished the Spider Meadows – Buck Creek Loop.  Time to start planning for 2012!

End of the trail at the Buck Creek Trailhead. Just a few miles of road to hike to close the loop.

Sign post for the trail home.

After our morning jaunt to Liberty Cap, we picked up our packs, hiked back up to the trail and began to make our way towards the next camp.  This trek ended up being a sustained downhill slog, dropping ~2700 feet over ~7 miles.  The trail was essentially a long traverse down the valley to the east of Buck Creek.

However, even in a walk through the woods we once again witnessed the destructive power of an avalanche as we hiked over a mix of snow and snapped off trees.

An avalanche left this snowfield over the trail.

We also crossed a few areas where wind storms appeared to have blown a couple hundred meter wide swath of trees down, as if they were twigs.  I was glad we were hiking down and not up, since at every stop on this section of trail we were attacked by swarms of biting flies.  I could imagine it would be a little disheartening to hike uphill in the hot sun for 7 miles, and not be able to enjoy a moments rest because of bugs!  Around a mile from our planned campsite we were able to start into a positive aspect of this trail – finally we found ripe blueberries and huckleberries.  The late snow, and cold spring / wet summer knocked out most of the crop, so I was pretty happy to be able to sample as I hiked, though the pickings were sparse.

Campsite at Chiwawa River.

We arrived at our intended camp at Chiwawa River fairly early – and once again had to fend off the bugs.  We quickly set up camp, then went down to the river, where we discovered that the cooler temperatures meant a bug free zone.  I grabbed my pillow, found a rock and was soon reading, then dozing under the bridge.  What a life!  After a few hours of leisure, I took a bath in the river.  Though snow melt is a little chilly, I manage full submergence which induced a little brain freeze.  I was grateful that no hikers came by at that moment as they might be wondering what that glowing white animal was doing in the river…

Our traditional pasta with marinara sauce in honor of Fabian!

In honor of our hiking partner Fabian, we once again brought out the pasta and tomato basil sauce and prepared a feast for the ages.  Hopefully circumstances will bring us together for another great hike, perhaps in the Alps or Pyrenees.  With a full stomach, and feeling clean and refreshed, it didn’t take long to drift off to sleep this last night on the trail.

With our leisurely pace on the loop trip, we decided to take a morning side trip, hiking from the Buck Creek Pass camp up to Liberty Cap.  Having stashed our packs we practically skipped up the trail – I guess 40lbs really does make a difference, even on a large frame like mine.  We climbed ~700 feet up over the course of a couple of miles, quickly gaining altitude on the switchbacks, and circling west on a few long traverses.

Glacier Peak from Liberty Cap

Heading up the trail it did not take long for a return on our hiking investment, as we rounded the mountain and were rewarded with outstanding views of Glacier Peak to the west.  Located more remotely in the Cascade range, the mountain does not receive as much attention as its Washington cousins Baker, Rainier, St. Helens and Adams.  However, this 10500ft beauty is one of the great active volcanic mountains of the northwest having erupted ~5 times over the last 3000 years. The evidence of this activity was strewn all around us, as we picked up porous lightweight volcanic rock.  Needless to say, the peak sparkled under the clear blue sky, showing off it’s incredible geological features. More than one acquaintance has challenge me to a trip to the summit and now that I’ve seen the mountain, the temptation is real.

Ken enjoying a little R&R on Liberty Cap.

As we made our way to the western slopes of Liberty Cap, the Glacier views were almost trumped by the vast meadows of wildflowers we wandered into.  It is practically impossible to capture the sensory experience of hundreds of acres of wildflowers in vivid bloom.  We made a few attempts with our cameras, but in the end I simply sat back, looked out across at Glacier Peak and enjoyed the moment.  The diversity of plant species, range of colors and the variety and numbers of bees and other insects were more than I’ve seen before.  All I can say is that I would recommend this little side trip to anyone.  Along with Rialto Beach, I’ll add it to the top of my list of places to visit!

Wildflower meadows on Liberty Cap.

Once up and about, we were looking forward to this as the day of climbing, with ~4 mountain passes to trek through.

Filling the water bottle at Lyman Lake.

After the usual oats and oranges, we pumped our water bottles full at Lyman Lake, and headed on our way on trail 1256.  After a walk through the forest we came out on a vast grassy meadow and a snow field at the 6400ft Cloudy Pass.  Looking back, on Lyman Lake and falls below we could pick out Lyman Glacier and Spider Gap where we had come through the day before.  The mountain peaks, ridges, glaciers and snow fields contrasted with the brilliant green of the meadow. Given this landscape combined with the soundscape of countless waterfalls and mountain creeks, you can begin to understand the attraction of trips into the wilderness.

Looking back from Cloudy Pass. Follow Lyman Falls and the snow field up to our crossing at Spider Gap.

From Cloudy Pass we headed down 900ft to the Agnes Creek trail, then back up 500ft to meet the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) and eventually reached Suiattle Pass.  On the advice of a hiker going in the opposite direction, we avoided the bypass trail between, as he described very steep snow – and we of course did not have poles or an ice axe.  From Suiattle Pass we followed the PCT down ~1400 ft (following PCT grade) mostly traversing wooded slopes, eventually crossing Miners Creek.  If it were not for the PCT Detour sign, we probably would have walked past the trail (789) to Buck Creek Pass.

Leaving the PCT, we immediately hit ‘non-PCT grade’ with a stiff 1600 ft climb over the next 2 miles.  We stopped for a lunch break ~ halfway up, preparing a meal of instant miso soupand some landjaegers. It was fun to find a 1940′s geological survey marker in the rocks where we dined.

Geological Survery Marker

Re-energized by lunch, we resumed the climb to the Middle Ridge trail at around 6200 ft then quickly descending on the Buck Creek trail, dropping down to Small Creek at 5100 ft.  Small was a bit of an oxymoron as this was the only creek I actually had to take my boots off to cross – the icy cold water was incredibly refreshing.  From Small creek, the trail headed up through several non-PCT switchbacks eventually reaching the trail to Flower Dome.  After a quick break, we hiked the last 0.3 miles  and made our way down to the Buck Creek Pass campsite.

Crossing Small Creek - Refreshing!

After setting up our camp under some trees, I began to feel the effects of all the climbing, and decided to pass on dinner for the night, though I managed some soup and an orange.  With a few hours of sunlight, I spent some time reading and then enjoyed the changes in light on the neighboring mountains as the sun set.  As it grew dark, we took in another star filled sky, then climbed into bed and dropped off to sleep before long.

The setting sun on Helmet Butte.

Waking up and getting up, though related, are two separate activities, particularly the first morning on the trail.  First light seemed to creep in around 6:30, though I don’t  recall a conscious memory before 7am throughout the trip.  On clear nights the temperature drops, so that once awake the mental struggle is between the comfort of a warm sleeping bag and the chilly morning air.  For me, the balance is tipped by morning breath in a cocoon sleeping bag and by the call of nature…  My normal morning routine is to get into my hiking clothes, stuff away my sleeping bag, roll up my thermarest, get everything packed  and then climb out of the tent.  It being the first morning, things moved slowly as I re-established the routine, but with a bowl of oatmeal and a cup of extra strong Nescafe Instant (blech) it didn’t seem to take too long before we shouldered our packs and were back on the trail again.

Enjoying the morning sun on Spider Meadow

View of the meadow from the base of Spider Glacier

We hiked north across Spider Meadow, recrossing the avalanche and Phelps Creek, then heading up on a steep traverse across a cliff face.  The slope percentage quickly led us to coin the term “non-PCT grade”, since the PCT is largely limited to less than 5% grade whereas we were often pushing up much >10%.  I couldn’t help thinking how a little experience has gone a long way, since on our first attempt to reach Spider Glacier in 2004 we turned back half way up despite not having packs on.  This time around, while it took some effort, we (with packs) trekked up to Larch Knob at the base of the glacier. There were a few tent sites at this point, which explained the lights we saw the previous night.  This vantage point holds a commanding view of the meadow and the valley carved out along Phelps Creek.

With this years snow pack, melt water trickled into rivulets that collected into creeks and dropped hundreds of feet over granite into rivers below.  It was impressive to see (and hear)  the volume swell as the sun and temperature rose during the day, and then drop off again as the evening cooled.

After a short break, we donned our packs again and started up Spider Glacier, heading for Spider Gap.  The midday sun had softened the snow enough that we could kick in footsteps as we climbed up the glacier.  This was the first time I wished for two pieces of equipment: some trekking poles and sunglasses.  Until this hike, I haven’t really seen the need for poles, but as the slope increased and I spun out in the snow a time or two, I could see how the extra support would have been pretty helpful. The glacier climb took us up another 1100 ft over the course of ~0.5 miles of kicking snow steps.  Just below Spider Gap we found a large rock in the middle of the snowfield where we kicked back and enjoyed a couple hours of snoozing in sunshine, with cool breezes coming off the snow.

Posing on Spider Glacier

Ken trekking to the top of Spider Gap

After our break, we covered the last stretch up to Spider Gap (7100ft) in short order, then headed down the snow field along the Lyman Glacier towards Upper Lyman Lake.  The glacier sits in a north facing cirque and feeds a chain of blue green lakes that were still half frozen with chunks of ice bobbing in the water.

Looking down from Spider Gap on Upper Lyman Lakes

Looking down from the gap, an encampment of 7 tents on the shores of the glacier lake put me in mind of a exploratory colony on the moon.  My new desire for trekking poles grew as we stepped/slid our way down the snow field.  Fortunately, other than a minor hyperextension of my knee, we found our way to the trail (1256B) and as the wind picked up at our backs we made our way to a campsite on the north end of Lyman Lake.

The site we chose was a few hundred feet from the lake, at the junction with the trail to Holden.  It  offered good shelter in the trees, which came in handy as this was the one cloudy night, and we dealt with light showers throughout the evening.  Despite the weather, I took a mini dip in Lyman lake, washing away some of the dust and sweat accumulated on the trail.  After a fine dinner of rice and chicken, some tea and a delicious orange I turned in and was soon asleep.

The Drive – Usually I don’t include the drive, but this one was a little special. Last winter I donated my faithful Windstar minivan and replaced it with a great 1993 Mazda B2600 pickup.

Loaded and ready to hit the trail!

The last few weeks the clutch was getting a little sticky, but who thinks about these things when getting ready for a trip? The Phelps Creek trailhead is around 90 miles from Seattle – a quick trip on Hwy2 over Stevens Pass, left on 207 past Lake Wenatchee and Fish Lake, then 20 miles north on FS62. Well, I guess I should have thought about the clutch because somewhere between Monroe and Sultan I found myself clutchless. At this point, I figured I would just go for it, shifting without the clutch and deal with repairs when I got home.  Ken might say au contraire, but excepting the left through traffic off of HWY2 – a few ‘rolling’ stop signs and one or two scary moments dealing with oncoming traffic on the one lane gravel road – I think the drive went pretty well. We arrived at the trailhead around 4:15pm, positioned the truck so that I could roll back, and get it into gear rolling downhill when we were done, and by 4:30 we were ready to hit the trail.

Phelps Creek Trailhead - The start of another adventure.

The Phelps Creek Trail (1511) is an easy walk between the creek some distance below to the west and a series of mountains (Carne, Maude, Seven Fingered Jack, Dumbell) connected by ridges to the east.  We took the opportunity to ease into the trip, reacquainting ourselves with the 40lbs of pack, adjusting straps etc.   We met a dozen or more people heading out after day hikes or weekend trips (there were more than 30 cars in the lot), which improved the prospect of a reasonable campsite at Spider Meadow.  Along the way we crossed several creeks that were still carrying snow melt down to Phelps Creek, though the flow rates were low enough that none posed any difficulty.

We made it to the meadow by around 6pm and decided to hike through to the same area we had camped in 2003.  Unfortunately, a fairly large avalanche had swept across from the east ridge, snapping off trees along it’s path, and burying our intended camp.

Spider Meadow avalanche.

We hiked across the remaining snow, which even this late in the season looked to be several feet deep and at least 100ft across – not likely to melt out before winter.  Under the circumstances, we decided to hike back and set up camp at the base of the meadow where there were open spaces and ready access to water from Phelps Creek.

After setting up  camp, we pulled out the hamburgers we grilled and froze the night before, heated them up, wrapped them burrito style and ate like kings under the clear night sky.  Flanked on the east and west by sheer walls of granite, the sun set early on the meadow.  Before long the sky darkened and the nightly celestial show began.  I look forward to this display every trip I make, and as the milky way became visible it heightened the contrast with my home night sky where it is obscured by the city lights.  After an hour of sky time, including a cameo appearance by the ISS, I crawled into my sleeping bag and despite the usual first night aches and pains, I quickly drifted off to sleep.

• August 21st.  Spider Meadow –   Start ~4:30 pm. Distance: ~5.5 miles.  Elevation Gain: 1300 ft.
• Aug. 22.  Start Time: 9:30  Distance: ~5.5 miles. Altitude/Elevation: 2400 ft gain (high point 7100 ft), 1600 ft drop – Lyman Lake Camp – 5500 ft.
• Aug. 23rd.  Start Time: 9:00 Distance: 11.5 miles   Elevation: Climbed ~4000 ft, Descended ~3600 ft.  Buck Creek Pass Elevation ~5900ft.
• Aug. 24th.  Side trip to Liberty Cap (trail 1562.2)
• Aug. 24th. Start Time: 12:30pm.  Distance: 7 miles.  Elevation: 2700 ft descent.
• Aug 25th. StartTime: 9:30 am.  Distance ~4.5 miles.  Descent 500 to Trinity, Climb 700 to Trailhead.
• Forest Thrones

Despite all the planning to fill in the Rainy Pass to Steven’s Pass section of the PCT, things simply didn’t work out this year. Once the dates were locked in and Ken purchased his tickets, I received a call letting me know that my nephew (you know who you are) decided on a wedding date – right in the middle of the 8-9 day trek.   While I was giving my best and backing out due to extenuating circumstances, a withering look from my better half signaled a change in itinerary – it was time to find a new shorter hike that fit with a wedding trip.  After a little scrambling, I chose the Spider Meadow – Buck Creek Loop.  In our inaugural overnight trip, Ken and I hiked up to Spider Meadows back in 2003. We decided to return to the trip that got us hooked, and extend it as a loop hike that has a bit of everything – forests, meadows, glaciers, snow fields, lakes waterfalls, avalanches and more.

The trip took five days (day one involved a 3 hour drive and a 2 hour hike up to Spider Meadow) and four nights and is outlined in the map below.

View Larger Map
We were somewhat fortunate to make it to the trailhead since I lost my clutch somewhere around Monroe. I promise, I didn’t think about the clutch throughout the whole trip, and managed to drive back to Seattle sans clutch – the only nightmare – getting caught in a traffic stop for road repairs. I inadvertantly discovered that I could start in 1st – which made the trip home easier, allowing my usual stop for an iced latte next door to the Alpen Drive In, just west of Startup Wa.

Oct. 9 2010.  The summer slipped by so quickly that we are already well into fall and I’ve only been up in the mountains three times (excluding the 5 days of Bowron Lakes) – a sad contrast to the +20 hikes of 2009.  Work, though necessary and even enjoyable, can get in the way of mountain time.  When I considered that my schedule precludes any hikes for the next 4 weeks, taking me all the way into November, and that Clara was going to spend Saturday at Olympus Spa – a place I couldn’t go even if I wanted to, this looked like the last chance for 2010. So despite the forecast of up to 8 inches of rain between Friday and Monday, I called up Joe who found a way to be free (thanks Teresa!), and we headed out to the Blanca Lake trailhead early Saturday morning.

The empty parking lot at Blanca lake

Around 7 am we passed through Monroe heading east on HWY 2, then turned north on the Beckler River road (FS 65) a mile past Skykomish and drove ~15 miles (6 on pavement 9 on gravel) to reach the trailhead around 8am.  I wasn’t too surprised that we were the only car in the lot.  Under a light drizzle we donned our day-packs and headed into the forest and up the trail.   After a few hundred feet of flat trail, we began the climb, which followed switch back upon switch back without abating until we reached the top of the ridge.

Misty meadows along the trail to Blanca Lake

The hike started in mature second growth forest, crossed an old road bed (large trees now grow out of it), passed into old growth forest, thinned into alpine scrub and finally topped out in fields of heather and huckleberries.  It is hard to do justice to the incredible color palette on display in the fall. In places the moss carpet was a deep green, in others the reds and yellow of the huckleberries seemed to stretch out for acres.  And above it all, the fog and clouds shifted over the rocks and through trees setting a  misty tone that is quintessential fall in the Cascades.

Mushrooms growing through moss.

While the habitat along the trail is always a great place to find mushrooms and fungi, this trip seemed to be a mycologists dream.   We spotted every shape and size of polypore (those cool looking mushrooms that grow on dead or dying trees), and at least a dozen different mushrooms.  Though tempted to try some in our soup, I used a little discretion and decided some training beyond ‘if it bruises blue your are probably ok’ would be in order before I added them to our trail culinary repertoire.

Blanca Lake and the Columbia Glacier

Having crested the ridge, and skirted Virgin lake at the top, we quickly descended to Blanca Lake, dropping around 600 ft. in less than half a mile.  The trail was full of roots and a little slippery, criss crossing the steep slope (probably >70 degrees) down to the lake. Fed directly by the Columbia glacier, the lake was a remarkable aquamarine / jade green color (sadly, my point and shoot digital does not do justice to the colors).  The trail came down to the lake at the outlet, where hundreds of trees have collect over the years.  The tail of the Columbia glacier was visible across the lake, and produced a river which cascaded over waterfalls feeding the lake with water and the silt which gave it it’s unique color.

Old Growth - Home for many critters.

We ate a fine lunch of Miso soup and home made tortilla chips, which we then swallowed down with a cup of tea.  The hot food counter acted the cool breeze off the glacier, and the continuous misty rain.  After an hour of eating and poking around on the lake shore, we packed up and began to make our way back up the steep slope.  Along the way we met up with four other small groups of hikers (10 in total) making their way to the lake. Heading down from the ridge, I paid more attention to the old growth forest, which we walked through for more than a mile. We passed immense trees which have been growing on this mountainside for hundreds of years, as well as downed nurse logs which supported a range of trees from saplings to 100+ footers.

We made it back to the trail head around 3 pm, a little wet from the drizzle (and maybe a little from sweat) and a little sore from the climb, but very happy with the hike.  With a well deserved coffee stop at the Aspen in Startup, the day was a great success. I am ready to return for a 3rd trip to the lake, and would really enjoy hiking out to the base of the glacier.  Maybe next year.